This is a vegetarian twist on a traditional Italian carbonara, sans the savory salt-cured pancetta.
What’s that you say? I must be crazy to attempt carbonara without the pig fat!? Its a mockery to both my Italian and Cuban ancestry? Well.. maybe, but this dish uses meaty salted Maitake in a way that provides a faithful, and healthier, relacement for the missing bacon. Anyway, the pancetta used in most restaurant versions of this dish is really just a substitute for the traditional pig cheeks (Guanciale). So get over your bacon withdrawl and try it, it is really good.
The ingredients featured in this recipe all came from the locally grown produce selection found at the PSU Farmer’s Market, including the wonderfully fresh Tagliatelle pasta from Pastaworks.
The dish is topped with a pile of braised artichokes, adapted from a Jaden’s Steamy Kitchen recipe for fried baby artichokes. These are so simple to prepare, and add a wonderful contrast to the creamy, salty carbonara. Instead of using Jaden’s recipe wholesale, I simply halved the artichokes, fried them in oil and garlic for about five minutes and then braised them with a small amount of water for another ten minutes or so. As an aside, I also cooked the leaves peeled from the baby chokes during preparation, scraped the meaty white pulp from their base, and incorporated it into the cabonara when adding the onions to the sauteing mushrooms and oil.
Maitake Carbonara alla Tagliatelle (serves 4+)
1/2 c. olive oil
2 Tbs. butter
1/2 lb. Maitake, chopped
1 large sweet onion, minced
6 large egg yolks
1 1/2 c. heavy cream
1 1/2 c. finely grated parmesian-reggiano
fresh ground black pepper
2 lbs. fresh Tagliatelle pasta
Bring the butter and oil mixture to saute temperature over med-high heat and add the Maitake and a pinch of garlic. Saute the mushrooms until they soften, then stir in 1 tsp. or so of sea salt. Allow the mushrooms to lose their water and begin to brown around the edges and crisp up a bit, then add the onions and continue to saute the mixture, stirring often, until the onion turn translucent. Remove from heat and set aside.
Meanwhile, beat together the creme and egg yolks until the creme thickens a bit, about five minutes, then incorporate the grated cheese and allow the mixture to sit at room temperature while you cook your pasta (this will prevent the sauce from robbing the pasta of its heat in the next step).
Bring your salted pasta water to a boil and cook the pasta al dente. Quickly drain the pasta and return it to the cooking pot on med. high heat. Stir in the onion and mushroom saute, seasoning liberally with the black pepper. Remove from heat and fold in the egg yolk, cream and cheese mixture until well incorporated. Garnish and serve immediately.

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Tags: Maitake, Carbonara, Tagliatelle, JP Oliva

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